Sailing guide
Tacking
There are two styles of gybing. I learnt by sitting down when I came in and then I switch to staying standing up when I come in. This makes it quicker to gybe and you can control the pitch of the boat but I feels a bit unstable so when it is windy I tend to switch back
Twist grip. Wind the flap down as you move in and come of the wire and wind the flap up as the go out on the wire. To make the boat turn quicker heal the boat to leeward as you go in and let it come level as the boom comes across. Up wind
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Reaching
Sometimes a stab on the rudder will bring it back Move forward and in and pull the main sheet in to bring the stern down. When the rudder has re-griped take off again. The more you steer the more the rudder will stall so tighten up the rudder pin so the till is stiff to move. Windward mark
Modifications There are a few important modifications and a few others that make launching easier Wands. 1250mm for flat water. 1350mm for waves On the pivot plate the ratios have changed. The old ratios took a little of the flap to start with and then a lot at the end of the wands travel. This is good for take offs but makes for a rough ride when up on the foils. The new ratio takes the flap of evenly over the wand range. Where the pivot plate attaches to the bow plate the hole is moved 20mm back. This allows the wand to go further forward which brings the boat down quicker when it is riding to high. Double pinning the dagger board stops the board going through the bottom mount. New rudder pin makes putting the rudder down a lot easier. Twist gantry adjuster makes setting the boat at the start. If your boat is already set up the way you like there is no need for this |